Machinery for suits, jackets and dress trousers

Tailoring and dress trousers. Here the garment is judged by its finish: the buttonhole, the button and the piped pocket have to come out the same on piece one hundred as on the first.

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In tailoring almost every seam is done on a lockstitch flatbed. What decides production isn’t that machine, it is the four operations that are repeated on every garment and are slow by hand: the buttonhole, the button, the bartack and the piped pocket. That is where the automatic unit pays for itself.

What is made and with which materials

Suits, jackets, blazers, dress trousers and skirts. Woven wool fabric, blends, gabardine and lining, with interlinings and reinforcements that change the thickness within the same piece.

The four operations that set the pace

Eyelet buttonhole. The jacket buttonhole has gimp and an eyelet shape; it isn’t the same straight buttonhole as on a shirt and isn’t made on the same machine.

Button. Two and four-hole buttons, with shank and sometimes a back button. It’s a short operation that, repeated a hundred times a day, takes up a whole person.

Bartack. Reinforcing pockets, vents and belt loops.

Piped pocket. The slowest operation and the one that shows most if it comes out uneven. An automatic unit makes it complete in one cycle, with both pipings and the opening cut to size.

The machines, brand by brand

What goes into a tailoring workshop: the flatbed that works the most hours and the automatic units that take the repeated operations out of the way.

Juki

The production flatbed and the three automatic units that unblock the line: eyelet buttonhole, button and bartack.

DDL-9000C

MEB-3200 eyelet buttonhole

MB-1800 buttons

LK-1900 bartacks

PFAFF Industrial

Lockstitch and chainstitch flatbeds for tailoring, button sewing automatic units (including cufflink buttons) and the series 35 automatic sewing systems.

333-7121243-712

3307-9/02 cufflink buttons

358637043822

Dürkopp Adler

From the 170 series chainstitch machines and the 261-281 flatbeds to the buttonhole, button, bartack and piped pocket automatic units, plus the modular workstations of the 550 series.